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A journey into two of the world’s least visited and most intriguing places: the unrecognized countries of Abkhazia & South Ossetia.
At Against the Compass, we’re all about going where few travelers dare to go—and it doesn’t get more off-the-beaten-path than these self-declared republics.
Today, Abkhazia and South Ossetia lie in a geopolitical limbo: they are only recognized by a handful of states, including Russia, Venezuela, Syria, Nicaragua, Nauru and Vanuatu. Yet, they are filled with natural beauty and fiercely proud locals who will welcome you with a hospitality you’d never expect.
From abandoned Soviet relics to remote monasteries, and from ghost towns to local feasts, this is another compelling, off the beaten path itinerary only offered at Against the Compass.
April 10th to 16th, 2026
€2490
7 days
Led by Oriol López
Note that we always keep the itinerary flexible, and it may be subject to change, depending on the political situation.
1 – Apr 10th: Sochi to Abkhazia
2 – Apr 11th: Lake Ritsa & Sukhumi
3 – Apr 12th: Sukhumi
4 – Apr 13th: New Athos & Mineralniye Vody
5 – Apr 14th: Mineralniye Vody to South Ossetia
6 – Apr 15th: Akhalgori (Leningor)
7 – Apr 16th: Kvaisi and North Ossetia
We recommend flying into Sochi on the day before the tour starts. Sochi is an easy-to-navigate, modern city packed with accommodation options and restaurants, easy to get there on your own.
On day 1, the meeting point for this tour will be a hotel in the center of Sochi, around 12 pm. From there, we’ll drive straight to the border with Abkhazia.
After clearing border formalities, we’ll head to Gagra—a once-glamorous Soviet seaside resort, famous for its elegant architecture now partly in ruins, making it an incredible place for urban exploration.
Overnight in Gagra.
In the morning, you’ll venture into Abkhazia’s stunning mountains to visit Lake Ritsa, a brilliant turquoise lake surrounded by dense forests and towering cliffs.
It’s hard to imagine that, on the very shores of this lake, Stalin himself once spent his holidays in his personal dacha (summer house). Lake Ritsa was a favored retreat for the Soviet elite, and today, you can still visit Stalin’s historic dacha.
After exploring the lake and its surroundings, we’ll continue to Achandara village for lunch with locals. Then, we’ll head to Sukhumi, the capital of Abkhazia.
Overnight in Sukhumi.
Sukhumi, the capital of Abkhazia, is a city trying to reinvent itself amid abandoned buildings and remnants of Soviet-era grandeur.
The city center is dominated by the ruins of the former Parliament building, once occupied by Georgian authorities. Instead of reoccupying it, the Abkhazians have left it standing as a haunting symbol of the past.
You’ll wander through Sukhumi’s diverse architecture, which reflects both its ancient history and Soviet legacy.
Overnight in Sukhumi.
After an early breakfast, we’ll drive back toward the Russian border, stopping in New Athos along the way. Here, you’ll visit one of the most beautiful monasteries in the region, founded in 1875 by monks from Mount Athos in Greece who sought refuge in Abkhazia under the Russian Empire.
After crossing into Russia, we’ll return to Sochi to board a night train to Mineralniye Vody.
Overnight on the train.
Upon arrival in Mineralniye Vody, we’ll travel by minibus toward South Ossetia via the spectacular Trans-Caucasian Highway.
En route, we’ll visit several highlights, including the ghost town of Mizur and the Uastyrdji Monument—one of North Ossetia’s most dramatic landmarks—a breathtaking 28-ton bronze sculpture of Saint George on horseback, dramatically cantilevered out of a cliff face above the highway.
Border formalities into South Ossetia can be lengthy, often taking several hours longer than those for Abkhazia, so be prepared for delays.
We plan to arrive in Tskhinval, the capital of South Ossetia, in the evening.
Overnight in Tskhinval.
Leningor is the most politically sensitive town in South Ossetia. Until 2008, Akhalgori (its Georgian name) was the only part of present-day South Ossetia still under Georgian government control, with over 90% of its population being ethnic Georgians.
Though the town did not see direct combat during the 2008 Russia–Georgia war, South Ossetian and Russian forces took over the area after the ceasefire, displacing most of its Georgian residents.
Today, locals use the Soviet-era name “Leningor.” We’ll explore the area, visiting Armazi Church, the Castle of the Ksani Eristavs, and sharing a meal with a local cultural leader.
Kvaisi is now a quiet town in western South Ossetia near the border with Georgia’s Racha region. In Soviet times, however, it was a significant industrial and mining center. Remnants of that era remain visible in its abandoned factories, faded murals, and stark concrete architecture.
If you’re into urban exploration and crumbling Soviet relics—including Lenin statues—Kvaisi is a fascinating stop.
Next, we’ll visit Tiri Monastery, a beautiful Georgian Orthodox complex dating back to the 8th century. For centuries, it played a crucial role in spreading Christianity throughout the South Caucasus.
After crossing back into Russia, we’ll drive to Vladikavkaz.
End of the tour.
6 nights of accommodation (twin shared)
Visa for Abkhazia + South Ossetia
Permits for border areas
Letter of Invitation for Russia
Train tickets
Transportation across the Caucasus
English-speaking local guides
International Tour Leader
Entrance tickets to the places mentioned
International flights
Extra drinks
Single supplement. Having your own private room costs €235
April 10th to 16th, 2026
€2490
7 days
Led by Oriol López
For security reasons, the name of the hotels we stay will only be shared upon booking your spot.
The price of the tour includes accommodation in a twin room.
If you are a solo traveler, you will be sharing the room with another like-minded traveler from the group.
If you want to have your single room, you will have to pay an additional €235.
You don’t need to do anything other than sending us a copy of your passport, and we’ll take care of the rest.
The visa application takes around 4-6 weeks to process.
Today, the borders with Georgia are closed, so you can only enter the separatist republics from Russia.
Starting point: Sochi (Russia)
Ending point: Vladikavkaz (Russia)
There are several daily flights from Istanbul, Yerevan and even Tbilisi.
Most airlines flying into Sochi are Russian, but you can check schedules and book your tickets on aviasales.com.
More information will be shared upon booking your spot.
The tour finishes on April 17th in the evening, which is a Friday. On Saturday, there’s a direct flight to Istanbul. Otherwise, you can also find flights from nearby Grozny, or go to Moscow.
Remember that you may also join our North Caucasus expedition (with Chechnya and Dagestan) that will run on: April 18th to 25th, 2026.
Get €100 off when booking both.
Click here for more details.
Moscow has daily connections with Dubai (Emirates and Fly Dubai), Istanbul (Turkish) and Baku (Azerbaijan Airlines).
Tips and further information will be shared upon booking your spot.
When you enter Abkhazia and South Ossetia, you are leaving Russian territory, so you will need a multiple entry visa for Russia.
Don’t worry, it’s very easy, even for Americans.
More details will be shared upon booking your spot but meanwhile, find more information here.
All nationalities are welcome, including US, British, Canadian and Australian citizens.
This tour is limited to 12-13 people max.
The minimum number of participants for this tour to run is 6 people.
Note: The International Tour Leader of this tour will only join with a minimum group of 8 people. If less than 8 people, you’ll be traveling with our English-speaking representative from Moscow, and the local guides in Abkhazia and South Ossetia.
To secure your spot on the tour, we require a deposit.
We accept payments in both Euros and US dollars. All details will be shared upon booking your spot.
Information about the risks and dangers of the trip:
The traveler is expressly informed that the activities included in the travel itinerary are adventurous and/or take place in conflict zones, which entail dangers and imply the risk of physical, and psychological injuries, and/or death for the traveler.
Due to the characteristics of the destination and/or activities, the specific risks and dangers of the trip are, by way of example but not limited to, those listed below:
War; terrorism; political instability; arbitrary detentions, gunfire in the activity area; and/or violent crime.
Regarding the potential dangers of the destination, travelers are advised to consult the travel recommendations for the destination country provided by their country’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs. For example, in the case of the Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office (FCDO), these recommendations can be accessed on the following link: https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/russia
FCDO advises against all travel to Russia due to the risks and threats from its continuing invasion of Ukraine, including:
There is also a high likelihood terrorists will try to carry out attacks, including in major cities and in Chechnya, Dagestan and other parts of North Caucasus.
Yes, if you want to join any of our expeditions, you must purchase travel insurance.
Moreover, having valid travel insurance for travel in Russia is a must requirement for getting your visa at the embassy.
Unfortunately, our preferred travel insurance company (IATI Travel Insurance) isn’t covering travel in Russia any longer. Instead, we recommend Alfa Strakhovanie or InterMundial (website only in Spanish).
Please check our General Conditions.
However, specific conditions might apply depending on the destination. Example: when the trip includes airfare.
Full details will be shared upon booking your spot.