Most travelers think of Mongolia as endless steppe, horses and Genghis Khan.
However, hidden in the far north of the country, deep in the remote taiga forests near the Russian border, live the Tsaatan, one of the world’s last remaining reindeer-herding peoples.
On this immersively unique expedition, we’ll travel across North Mongolia for several days, staying in ger camps with yak breeders, until we finally reach the isolated nomadic camp of the Tsaatan people, learning about a nomadic lifestyle they’ve preserved since ancient times.
Join us in discovering off-the-beaten-track Mongolia.
June 24th to July 3rd, 2027
€1950
10 days
Tour leader to be confirmed





















Note that we always keep the itinerary flexible, and it may be subject to change, depending on the political situation.
1 – June 24th: Arrival in Ulaanbaatar
2 – June 25th: Fly to Mörön & Ulaan Ul, coexisting with yak breeders
3 – June 26th: Tsagaanur, coexisting with nomadic family
4 – June 27th: Tsaatan reindeer herders camp
5 – June 28th: Tsaatan reindeer herders camp
6 – June 29th: Ride back to Tsagaanur
7 – June 30th: Journey across the steppe to Khövsgöl
8 – July 1st: Lake Khövsgöl
9 – July 2nd: Fly from Mörön to Ulaanbaatar
10 – July 3rd: Departure
Arrival at the International Airport of Ulaanbaatar (UBN). Airport transfer and hotel check-in.
Ulaanbaatar is not only the coldest capital in the world but also a unique and fascinating city like nowhere else. Here, concrete Soviet-era buildings and monuments blend with Buddhist temples, and traces of nomadic culture remain highly visible in the lively bazaars, which attract nomads from the surrounding rolling steppe. All of this coexists with a rising modern Mongolian society that frequents chic cafés and South Korean restaurants.
Many travelers claim not to like Ulaanbaatar, but at Against the Compass, we definitely do.
Depending on your arrival time, we may have time for a stroll downtown. However, if you want to visit the city properly—including its many museums, temples, and bazaars—we recommend arriving the day before or departing one day later.
Evening drinks and traditional Mongolian dinner.
Overnight in Ulaanbaatar.
After breakfast, we’ll transfer to the airport for our domestic flight from Ulaanbaatar to Mörön, the gateway to northern Mongolia. Upon arrival, we’ll stop at a wholesale supermarket to stock up on food and supplies for the next few days before continuing our journey north, venturing deeper into the wide-open grasslands and rolling hills characteristic of this particular region of Mongolia.
In the afternoon, we’ll arrive at a ger camp run by yak breeders, offering a rare glimpse into the nomadic lifestyle that has sustained Mongolian communities for centuries.
Yaks aren’t widespread across all of Mongolia—they’re mostly concentrated in this region—so not many travelers get the chance to learn firsthand how these remarkable animals are bred and cared for.
Overnight in a ger camp.
Today’s journey takes us to Tsagaanur, the last village before the taiga—a remote settlement near the Russian border and the main staging point for expeditions into Tsaatan territory.
Here, we’ll stay with a Mongolian nomadic family, as that’s not only the best but also the only real way to understand their culture—by observing their day-to-day activities and lending a hand with their daily chores.
Overnight in a ger camp.
After a hearty Mongolian breakfast, we’ll hit the road again, driving for 1 hour until we reach the place where we’ll begin our journey into the taiga on horseback.
The ride by horse takes between 4 and 7 hours, depending on the exact location of the Tsaatan Reindeer Herders’ Camp that month, as the families move their camps seasonally.
We plan to arrive at the camp no later than 6 pm. Dinner will be prepared by our cook.
Overnight in a teepee, the traditional accommodation used by the Tsaatan people.
The Tsaatan are a group of nomadic people who live deep in the forests of northern Mongolia. Numbering no more than 450 people in all of Mongolia, the Tsaatan originally come from a region across the Russian border known as the Tuva Republic.
During World War II, to avoid having their young men conscripted into the Soviet army, hundreds of Tsaatan families fled across the border into Mongolia.
Over the following decades, many returned to Russia, but the few hundred who remained became the Mongolian group we will be coexisting with.
Today, while Tsaatan families living in the Tuva Republic in Russia have largely modernized and become Russified, those who settled in Mongolia’s taiga still preserve their traditional way of life. They continue to live nomadically in the forest, moving with their herds of reindeer and maintaining their distinct customs and language.
For a full day, we’ll immerse ourselves in their unique lifestyle, observing how they care for their reindeer and learning about the challenges of life in the remote taiga. The Tsaatan use their reindeer for a wide variety of purposes: producing dairy products like milk and cheese, providing meat, serving as transportation, and carrying loads through the dense forests.
Overnight in a teepee, the traditional accommodation used by the Tsaatan people.
At 8 am, it’s time to say goodbye to our Tsaatan hosts and retrace our journey back to Tsagaanur on horseback.
After the horse trek, we’ll hop into our vehicles and continue on to a ger camp by the river somewhere in the Mongolian steppe, in Sovoy Valley.
Overnight in a ger camp (with showers).
Slow morning, and then we’ll continue our journey across the vast Mongolian steppe towards Lake Khövsgöl, one of the country’s most spectacular natural landmarks.
We’ll arrive in the afternoon with time to relax by the lakeshore, enjoy the peaceful scenery, or take a walk around the area.
Overnight in a nice, relatively fancy ger camp by Lake Khövsgöl.
Stretching over 130 kilometers long, they say that Lake Khövsgöl holds about 2% of the world’s fresh water.
Khövsgöl has a deep connection with Lake Baikal in Russia. Both are part of the same ancient rift system, and Khövsgöl’s waters eventually flow north into the Selenge River, which empties into Baikal.
Full day of rest in and around Khövsgöl.
Overnight in Khövsgöl.
After breakfast, we’ll drive back to Mörön to catch our afternoon flight to Ulaanbaatar.
Hotel check-in and last dinner and evening drinks in the capital.
Overnight in Ulaanbaatar.
The expedition will officially end after breakfast.
9 nights of accommodation (twin shared)
Border permit
Private transportation across Mongolia
All meals (except for lunch on day 1, and both meals on 9 & 10)
English-speaking local guide
International tour leader (see FAQ)
Round-trip domestic flight
International flights to Ulaanbaatar: €180
Alcoholic drinks
Airport transfer on day 10
Single supplement (see FAQ)
June 24th to July 3rd, 2027
€1950
10 days
Tour leader to be confirmed
Against the Compass was created with a simple idea in mind: to challenge stereotypes and help travelers better understand parts of the world that are too often misunderstood.
Wherever we travel, we are guests in someone else’s home. We believe that curiosity, humility, and respect go a long way, and we encourage our travelers to embrace different cultures, religions, and ways of life with an open mind.
Just as responsible travel means respecting the environment and supporting local communities, it also means approaching people and their beliefs with empathy and understanding. Racism, prejudice, and dismissive attitudes toward the cultures and communities that welcome us run contrary to everything ATC stands for.
At the end of the day, travel should broaden our horizons, challenge our assumptions, and build bridges between people. After all, that’s what Against the Compass is all about.
Yes, we certainly can.
If our scheduled dates don’t work for you, or you’d prefer to travel solo or with a group of friends accompanied only by our guides, we can help you organize this itinerary or tailor a different one.
Yes, we have a specific discount policy for those who have already traveled with us.
For first-time travelers, we offer up to a 10% discount when booking more than one expedition at the same time.
In Ulaanbaatar, we’ll stay in a proper hotel: Toyoko Inn Hotel.
In Khövsöl Lake, we’ll stay in a fancy ger camp, with proper toilets and nice showers: Toilogt Tourist Camp.
The rest of the nights are in ger camps or teepees, staying just like the nomads do. They are basic, sometimes with no toilets or showers at all but please understand that this is the true Mongolia we want you to experience.
You can opt for a single supplement (private room) for the 2 nights in Ulaanbaatar, as well as for the 2 nights at Lake Khövsgöl, where you’ll have an entire ger to yourself. The additional cost for private accommodation during these 3 nights is €200.
Please note that single supplements are not available in the Tsaatan teepees or the other ger camps. On those nights, you’ll typically share your accommodation with 3–4 fellow travelers, depending on the size of the ger or teepee and overall availability.
Good question.
Mongolia can be rough, but you don’t need to be super fit to join this expedition.
You just need to be flexible and comfortable with long drives on bumpy roads and extremely basic accommodation with no toilet facilities—that’s how most nomads live.
There’s no hiking involved, but you do need to be prepared for the 5–7-hour horse trek we’ll undertake on days 6 and 8.
We’d say a reasonable level of fitness is required, but at the end of the day, it’s more about your mindset. If you can handle riding a horse for a few hours and getting off the grid, you’ll be absolutely fine.
Chinggis Khaan International Airport (UBN) is the main airport in Ulaanbaatar.
Turkish Airlines and Lufthansa have flights there regularly.
Also, check the local airline (Mongolian Airlines (MIAT). It conects Ulaanbaator with many cities in Europe like Berlin or Amsterdam, but also the USA and East Asian cities like Tokyo, Hong Kong or Seoul.
Alternatively, adventurous travelers can enter the country by train from either China or Russia. Land borders are fully operational.
No, you don’t. Most nationalities can get a free visa on arrival.
We will limit it to a maximum of 12-13 people.
To secure your spot on the tour, we require a deposit.
We accept payments in both Euros and US dollars. All details will be shared upon booking your spot.
Yes. If you want to join any of our expeditions, you must purchase travel insurance.
We recommend IATI Insurance.
Why do we recommend IATI?
Against the Compass has been a partner of IATI for a very long time. We personally know their CEO and marketing team, and we collaborate regularly, so in the unlikely event that something happens, we know exactly what to do.
Moreover, IATI Insurance covers all the countries where the FCDO advises against all travel, something that most insurance companies don’t.
You can also benefit from a 5% discount by purchasing it through the link below.
Get a quote here to claim your discount
Can I use a different company?
Yes, you can, as long as your insurance covers the destination you’re travelling to.
An international tour leader is an Against the Compass representative and a beloved member of our family who accompanies the group throughout the trip. You can learn more about our team here.
The role of the international tour leader is to support the local guide, help coordinate logistics, and ensure that everything runs smoothly throughout the tour. They also act as a bridge between travelers and the local team, assisting with communication, group management, and any issues that may arise during the trip.
Please note that an international tour leader will only join the tour if a minimum number of participants is reached. The exact number required depends on the destination and will be specified in the contract we share with you before confirming the trip.
Please check our General Conditions.
However, specific conditions might apply depending on the destination. Example: when the trip includes airfare.
Full details will be shared upon booking your spot.